Mount Everest
\nCategory:Mountains of NepalCategory:Mountains of Tibet\n{| border="1" bgcolor="#ffffff" cellpadding="5" align="right" width="305" style="margin-left:3px"\n!bgcolor=#e7dcc3 colspan=2|Everest\n|-\n|align=center colspan=2|
Everest from
Kala Pattar\n|-\n|bgcolor=#e7dcc3|
Elevation:||
8,850 m (29,035 feet)\n|-\n|bgcolor=#e7dcc3|
Latitude:||27°59′16″ N\n|-\n|bgcolor=#e7dcc3|
Longitude:||86°56′40″ E\n|-\n|bgcolor=#e7dcc3|Location:||
Nepal–
Tibet border\n|-\n|bgcolor=#e7dcc3|
Range:||
Himalaya\n|-\n|bgcolor=#e7dcc3|
First ascent:||
May 29,
1953 by
Edmund Hillary and
Tenzing Norgay\n|-\n|bgcolor=#e7dcc3|Easiest
route:||South Col (Nepal)\n|}\n\n
Everest is the
highest mountain on
Earth (as measured from
sea level). The summit ridge of the mountain marks the border between
Nepal and
Tibet. In Nepali the mountain is called
Sagarmatha (
Sanskrit for "forehead of the" sky) and in Tibetan
Chomolangma or
Qomolangma ("mother of the universe"). Although it was named Everest by Sir Andrew Waugh, the
British surveyor-general of
India, in honour of his predecessor Sir
George Everest, the popular pronunciation of Everest (Ev-er-est) is different from how Sir George pronounced his own last name (Eve-rest).
Measurement
\nRadhanath Sikdar, an Indian mathematician and surveyor from Bengal, was the first to identify Everest as the world's tallest peak through trigonometric calculations, in 1852. Some Indians believe that the peak should be named after Sikdar, not Everest.
The mountain is approximately 8,850 m (29,035 feet) high, although there is some variation in the measurements (though Nepal government has not officially recognized this measurement, the height of Everest is still considered 8,848 m). It was first measured in 1856 to have a height of 29,000 feet, but declared to be 29,002 feet high. The arbitrary addition of 2 feet reflected the sentiment at the time that an exact height of 29,000 feet would be viewed as nothing more than a rounded estimate. Today's generally accepted value of 8,850 m was obtained via GPS readings. Everest is still growing due to the plate tectonics of the area; however, the effects are significant only on a geological timescale.
To be precise, Everest is the mountain whose summit attains the greatest distance above sea level. Two other mountains are sometimes claimed as alternative "highest mountains on Earth." Mauna Loa in Hawaii is highest when measured from its base; it rises 17 km (58,000 feet) when measured from its base on the mid-ocean floor, but only attains 4,170 m (13,680 feet) above sea level. The summit of Chimborazo in Ecuador is 2,150 m further from the Earth's centre than that of Everest, because the Earth bulges at the Equator. However, Chimborazo attains a height of 6,272 m above sea level, by which criterion it is not even the highest peak of the Andes.
Interestingly enough, the deepest spot in the ocean is deeper than Everest is high: the Challenger Deep, located in the Mariana Trench, is so deep that if Everest were to be placed into it, it would have almost a mile of water covering it!
Ascents
\nOn June 8, 1924, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine, both of the United Kingdom, made an attempt on the summit from which they never returned. Noel Odell, the expedition's geologist, saw the pair climbing up "with great alacrity... near the base of the final pyramide" [sic] at 12:50pm that day. In 1979 climber Wang Hongbao of China revealed to a companion that he had discovered a body in 1975 thought to roughly match Irvine's description, but he unfortunately was killed in a fall the very next day before he could provide precise details to anyone else. In 1999 however, the famous Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition found instead Mallory's body in the predicted search area near the old Chinese camp. Controversy has raged in the mountaineering community as to whether the duo may have made it to the top of the world, 29 years before the confirmed ascent (and of course, safe descent) of Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953. The general consensus among climbers, as voiced by Renhold Messner, is that they did not; however, as of this writing (2004) another expedition being undertaken by the discoverers of Mallory's body to find Irvine's stands a good likelihood of producing further evidence one way or the other. In particular, the two (probably Irvine, since none was found on Mallory) are known to have carried at least one Kodak 'Vestpocket' camera between them, whose film would still be able to be developed even 80 years later, and may well contain pictures of a successful ascent. Mallory had gone on a speaking tour of the United States the year before in 1923; it was then that he exasperatedly gave the famous reply, "Because it is there," to a New York journalist in response to hearing the question, Why climb Everest? for seemingly the thousandth time.
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In 1995 George Mallory II of South Africa (grandson) reached the summit of Everest.
In 1933, Lady Houston, a millionaire ex-showgirl, funded the Houston Everest Flight of 1933, which saw a formation of aeroplanes led by the Marquess of Clydesdale fly over the summit in an effort to deploy the British Union Jack flag at the top.
Early expeditions ascended the mountain from Tibet, via the north face. However, this access was closed to western expeditions in 1950, after the Chinese took over Tibet. During 1951 and 1952 a British led expedition, including Edmund Hillary, travelled into Nepal to survey a new route via the southern face.
Taking their cue from the British, a Swiss expedition attempted to climb via the southern face, but turned back 200 meters short of the summit. Among the assault team was Sherpa Tenzing Norgay.
In 1953, a ninth British expedition, led by John Hunt, returned to Nepal. Hunt selected two climbing pairs to attempt to reach the summit. The first pair turned back after becoming exhausted high on the mountain. The next day, the expedition made its second and final assault on the summit with its fittest and most determined climbing pair. The summit was eventually reached at 11:30 am on May 29, 1953 by the New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay from Nepal climbing the South Col Route. Although Hillary admits his foot may have been ahead of Tenzing's, both acknowledged it as a team effort by the whole expedition. They paused at the summit to take photographs and bury a few sweets and a small cross in the snow, before descending. News of the expedition's success reached London on the morning of Queen Elizabeth II's coronation. Returning to Kathmandu a few days later, Hillary and Hunt discovered that they had been promptly knighted for their efforts.
On May 16, 1975 Junko Tabei became the first woman to reach the summit of Everest.
Up to the end of the 2001 climbing season, 1491 people have reached the summit (560 of them since 1998), and there have been 172 climber deaths, the worst year being 1996, when 15 people died trying to reach the summit, and the worst day being in that month killing eight. In May 2004, Kent Moore - a physicist from the University of Toronto - told New Scientist that an analysis of weather conditions on that most lethal day suggests that freak weather caused oxygen levels to plunge by around 14%. The eight who died were part of a group of 26 who were climbing without the aid of supplementary oxygen.
conditions on the mountain are difficult enough that most of the corpses have been left where they fell, some of them easily visible from the standard climbing routes.
Most expeditions use oxygen masks and tanks ([1]) above 26,000 feet (8,000 m); this region is known as the death zone. Everest can be climbed without supplementary oxygen, but this requires special fitness training and increases the risk to the climber: humans do not think clearly with low oxygen, and the weather, low temperatures and the slopes often require quick, accurate decisions.
Mountain climbers are a significant source of tourist revenue for Nepal; they range from experienced mountaineers to relative novices who count on their paid guides to get them to the top.
Timeline
\n* 1921 The first British expedition explores the access over the Rongbuk glacier.\n* 1922 Seven Sherpa climbers are killed in an avalanche becoming the first reported deaths on Everest. \n* 1922 The second British expedition reaches 8321 meters.\n* 1924 The third British expedition reaches 8500 meters. On June 6, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine ascend to attempt to reach the summit but are lost after cloud closes in. An eyewitness claims seeing them near the summit.\n* 1933 Lady Houston funds formation of aeroplanes to fly over summit to deploy the British Union Jack flag.\n* 1934 Maurice Wilson (British) dies on attempting to climb alone.\n* 1950 Nepal opens its borders to foreigners.\n* 1952 A Swiss expedition, including Sherpa Tenzing Norgay gives up from exhaustion, 200 meters short of the summit.\n* 1953 The summit was first reached at 11:30 am on May 29 by the New Zealander Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay from Nepal climbing the South Col Route.\n* 1960 On May 25, a Chinese team makes the first summit via the North Ridge.\n* 1963 First crossing by a United States expedition, starting from the west and descending over the south-west.\n* 1965 On May 20, Nawang Gombu Sherpa becomes the first person to reach the summit of Everest twice. \n* 1975 On May 16, Junko Tabei of Japan is the first woman on the crest.\n* 1975 On May 27, a Tibetan woman, Phantog, becomes the first woman to reach the summit from the Tibetan side.\n* 1978 Reinhold Messner (South Tyrol, Italy) and Peter Habeler (Austria) reach the crest without oxygen tanks.\n* 1980 First winter expedition by a team from Poland.\n* 1980 Reinhold Messner of South Tyrol, Italy, first man to climb Everest alone and without oxygen tanks.\n* 1982 On October 5, Laurie Skreslet becomes the first Canadian to reach the summit.\n* 1988 Jean-Marc Boivin of France starts with a paraglider from the mountaintop.\n* 1993 90 alpinists in the autumn alone, the commercial "Everest-climbing" starts.\n* 1993 Ramon Blanco of Spain became the oldest person to reach the summit aged 60 years, 160 days (record beat in 2001).\n* 1996 Hans Kammerlander of South Tyrol, Italy climbs the mountain from the north side in 16 hours and 45 minutes and returns on skis.\n* 1996 Göran Kropp of Sweden becomes first person to ride his bicycle all the way from his home in Sweden to the mountain, scale it alone without the use of oxygen tanks, and bicycle all the way back. \n* 1998 Edward Grylls of the United Kingdom is the youngest person to reach the summit aged 23 years old.\n* 1998 Tom Whittaker is the first disabled climber to make it to the summit.\n* 1999 Sherpa Babu Chiri Sherpa of Nepal stays for 21 hours on the mountaintop.\n* 2001 On May 24 15-year-old Sherpa Temba Tsheri becomes the youngest person to climb Everest. \n* 2001 On May 25, 32-year old Erik Weihenmayer, of Boulder, Colorado, becomes the first blind person to reach the summit.\n* 2001 On the same day 64-year old Sherman Bull, of New Canaan, Connecticut, becomes the oldest person to reach the summit.\n*2003 25-year-old Nepalese Sherpa, Pemba Dorjie Sherpa, makes the world's fastest ever ascent, in 12 hours 45 minutes on May 23.\n*2003 Only three days later, Sherpa Lakpa Gelu breaks this record with 10 hours 56 minutes. After a short dispute with Dorije the tourism ministry confirms Gelu's record in July. [1]\n*2003 Yuichiro Miura becomes the oldest person to reach the summit of Everest. He was aged 70 years and 222 days when he got to the summit (on May 22). \n*2004 Pemba Dorjie Sherpa smashes his own record, this time ascending the mountain in a mere 8 hours 10 minutes on May 21. [1]
See also
\n*Geography of China\n*Sagarmatha National Park
External links
\n*Timeline from everesthistory.com\n*No Longer Everest but Mount Qomolangma
\nEverest\nEverest\n \n\n \nzh-cn:珠穆朗玛峰\nzh-tw:珠穆朗瑪峰
